Ballpoint pen drawings of jewellery designs; cuff links and rings with pearls.

Large corsage brooch, Designer Henri Vever (1854-1942),
showcased at World's fair in Paris in 1900.
Thomas Faerber Collection, Geneva. cited in Book titled Pearls.

The designs for the jewellery pieces are progressing well. I have completed the colour drawings for the ring design showcased in a previous post. Step by step preparatory ballpoint pen drawings, featured on previous blog posts with the label Jewellery Designs (follow link). I refined the design by addressing the use of colour to enhance symmetry (to be enameled).

Ballpoint pen drawings; jewellery designs for cuff links and or rings. 

For the past two weeks however, I have focused my attention on new designs, rendered in preparatory ballpoint pen drawings showcased here. I have had to reduce the scale of the drawings to address design preferences and styling to scale. 

I have also extended my product range, opting to include neck pieces, cuff links and more rings. This has been a very exciting journey for me, as I am responsible for teaching drawings in the Jewellery Department. I have spent long hours honing my drawing style, especially rendering skills for jewellery design and manufacture.

I have also tried to render and capture the forms and shapes of pearls, as they feature strongly in the mythology of the five-clawed dragon. The dragon chasing a pearl ringed with flames, is at the centre of the inspiration for my ceramic installation with projected animation, titled and the ship sails on (image on the left).   Although it does not feature in the work at all, I have decided to incorporate pearls in the jewellery pieces for the following reasons.

To this end I have referenced an incredible book/catalogue titled Pearls. The book serves as a catalogue to an exhibition, also with the title Pearls, curated by the Museum of Islamic Art in Doha. The exhibition ran from January – June 2010. The author of the book was Dr Hubert Bari and David Lam. 

The Islamic Art Museum Qatar Doha, Architect IM Pei. 

It is an extensive publication that documents the formation of pearls, its history, their cultivation and finally a tribute to the first lady of pearls, Mademoiselle Chanel. The book also showcases historically significant and archetypal jewellery pieces as well as contemporary designs that are breathtaking in their beauty and design (image below). The post title image a fine example, arguably the most stunning jewellery piece featuring pearls ever designed.

'Cristaux Perles' necklace composed of
diamonds and pearls. Cited in Book Pearls

 Firstly, I have to address its importance and significance to the Chinese culture and in particular its symbolic association with the dragon.  Next year being the Year of the dragon and as mentioned on previous blog posts the theme of my exhibition in January 2012.The pearl represents a principal of life and embodies revitalization. Many sources do however question the fact whether the round forms and shapes in early artifacts does originate from the pearl itself or its association with the moon. It does not really matter, what is important are their symbolic meaning and significance. Both emblems embody fertilization and regeneration. The dragon pursuing a pearl is synonymous with the moon cycle - the iridescent sphere moving through the night sky.   When caught and swallowed by the dragon, it exemplifies the rare occurrences of an eclipse. Hence the Chinese fascination with pearls, its cultivation and incorporation in body adornment.

Gabrielle Chanel, portrait by Boris Lipnitzki (1897-1971)
cited in book titled Pearls (Bari & Lam; 2010)

Man Ray 1935.

Hommage to Mademoiselle Gabrielle Chanel – and her pearls.

Secondly, is the association of pearls with the fashion icon Coco Chanel (1883 -1971)? Her pearls were her most adorned and coveted possessions. She was apparently infatuated with their simple and yet lustrous and iridescent qualities. She would not be seen without them. She was however less concerned with the value of the pearls than their striking lustrous simplicity. She even wore fake pearls.

Go and look for my pearls. I am not going up to the ateliers until I have them round my neck, for I insist on being a credit to my girls.

Gabrielle Chanel.